Destination Boston for History, Seafood, Witches

Hotel Commonwealth

Recently, travelers wanted the newest, most exotic locations. But as we get back to basics and eschewing over-the-top experiences, it may be time to revisit one of the country’s best cities – Boston. Yes, without the occasional Ben Affleck or Mark Wahlberg movie, this East Coast jewel doesn’t get much attention, especially as a destination vacation spot.

And, that’s a shame.

Boston has a lot of offer – history, shopping, culture, and food. The Big Four. Or, if you like sports, The Big Five. As with most big cities, trying to understand the city in order to book hotels and plan itineraries may be daunting. But don’t worry. Boston is a walking city and has a terrific and safe public transportation system. You are literally minutes away from wherever you want to be.

We chose to anchor our week-long stay at The Hotel Commonwealth, on Commonwealth Avenue a few blocks away from Fenway Park and right smack in the middle of Boston University. It is at most 50 steps to the Kenmore rail station, which is the main line.

The Hotel Commonwealth features 148 rooms that personify a generous sense of comfort, space, and relaxation. The linens are Frette, and the bath products are Fresh. The staff is professional but personal and they have a spot-on desire to please. For instance, on checking out, we mentioned we would have preferred having a coffee pot in the room. Upon our return visit several days later, we did. It’s no wonder that Travel + Leisure magazine ranked it as the 13th best hotel for hotels with more than 100 rooms.
To get acclimated to Bean Town we went up to the 50th floor of the Prudential Center to the Skywalk Observatory for the 360-degree view. The exhibits give a feel for the town, and the displays highlighted immigrants who came and made it their own. For those who want to look at the view in comfort, go up two more flights to the Top of the Hub for a glass of wine or a meal. There is jazz every night, and although there is no cover charge there is a minimum order of $24 per person. And, while the restaurant features gourmet New England dishes and suitable wines, it does get a bit carried away. Honestly, $90 for a Luxury Rob Roy?

Oysters, of course

The other must-do is to book a trip on the Old Town Trolley Tours. The tours go throughout Boston, and it’s a get-off, get-on deal where you can board at Beacon Hill to shop and then get back on and go to the USS Constitution. The trolley drivers are pure Bostonian – full of vigor, humor, and stories. They glibly switch from the, “No Taxation without Representation” speech to explaining Boston politics when passing a parking garage at the Government Center. “Well, the building inspector said the beams were too small and couldn’t hold the weight, so the mayor fired him and got another inspector who said the beams were fine. And then they added two more floors.”

Island Creek Oyster Bar

Of course, it is an honor walking the two-and-a-half mile, 16-site Freedom Trail and reminding ourselves how fortunate we are – not only today – but also back when a group of men – and women – risked everything for an idea. Thousands of school children walk the Freedom Trail each year, but maybe as adults we need to do it, too. Yes, the Old North Church is still standing – just a few blocks from Paul Revere’s house – and you can climb the 294 steps inside the Bunker Hill obelisk monument. Did you know that the Battle of Bunker Hill actually took place on Breed’s Hill and the Revolutionary soldiers lost? As our tour guide said, “Only in Boston.”

Be sure to time your trip to Faneuil Hall when you’re hungry. Once the place of incendiary patriot speeches, it is now a food court. But what a food court. Dozens of small restaurants line the hall featuring all types of pizzas, seafood (incredible fried clams), lobsters, Chinese, ice cream, and sausage and peppers subs. Heaven!
If you want some modern history, take the red line out to the JFK Presidential Library. Overlooking the sea and shaped like a boat, the museum starts with a movie detailing his career up to the presidential election and then invites visitors to walk through rooms filled with his history, Jackie’s contributions (as well as her clothes), and his unique relationships with his brother Robert and Martin Luther King Jr.

Beacon Hill

Of course one can get any type of culinary splendor in Boston, but really, it’s all about seafood and Italian food. Take the North Line to Haymarket, walk a few blocks and you are in the middle of Italy. Any of the restaurants on Salem and Hanover streets feature homemade pastas and seafood delights. We would recommend Il Villaggio and La Galleria. For cannoli and other treats, it’s Mike’s Pastry. The lines are long but the staff is efficient and quick.
And, of course, Boston is also home to the wonderful challenge of finding the best lobster roll and New England clam chowder (or chowda). Frankly, we need to go back and try some more places before we declare a winner. But one restaurant we loved was the Island Creek Oyster Bar next to the Hotel Commonwealth.

Bunker Hill

Island Creek Oyster Bar features daily oysters from both the East and West coasts. Oysters and other seafood are harvested or caught by farmers the owners know and approve of – not only the product but also their philosophy of sustainability. The lobster is caught by the chef’s cousin, for instance. The menu – whether it’s scallops, lobster roll, or cod – is fresh and prepared in a modern twist of old classics. We highly recommend this new addition to Boston’s culinary scene.

Boston is a town that has something for everyone, but a word of caution. If you intend on seeing a sports event – either professional or college – get your tickets early. Most events sell out. Bostonians take their sports very seriously.
So why go to Boston? Well, take the Big Five – history, shopping, culture, food, and sports. But really, it’s as American as apple pie and maybe it’s time to remember how – and why – the United States got its start. Well, maybe it’s not as American as apple pie. How about as American as New England clam chowder?

Witches Predominate in Salem

Quincy Market

When a small town is home to some of the best fiction ever written as well as one of the most horrible episodes in American history, well, it’s worth a visit. So it was off to Salem, Mass., to see what inspired Nathaniel Hawthorne as well as the men and women who went on a literal witch hunt resulting in the deaths of 27 men and (mostly) women.

Salem is a 30-minute $10 train ride or ferry ride from Boston. The town is an architectural wonder with a majority of the homes dating back to the 1700s and 1800s. Salem native Samuel McIntire is credited with being one of the first designers of the Federal style architect and his work is found throughout.

Salem is a great place to explore and meander around. There are statutes to find – including one of Bewitched’s Samantha Stevens (played by Elizabeth Montgomery in the TV show), a wink at its more morbid history – and shops to peruse and museums to see. Go to the Salem Maritime National Historic Site, which is comprised of three wharves, the tall ship Friendship, the Custom House (where Hawthorne worked), the Derby House (home to the country’s first millionaire, Elias Haskett Derby), and the 17th century Narbonne House.

The actual House of Seven Gables

But frankly, the main attraction of Salem is Hawthorne and the ghosts of its Witch Trials of 1692. Hawthorne’s legacy is evident throughout the town. In fact, his great-great-grandfather, John Hathorne, was one of the judges who oversaw the Salem Witch Trials. Maybe that is why the author added a “w” to his name when he was in his 20s. It’s hard to walk Salem without thinking of Hester Prynne in the Scarlet Letter and the Puritan guilt that permeated Salem and Massachusetts during this time, which led to the hysteria of the witch trials.

But it is the House of Seven Gables that helps to define Hawthorne, and the house, which indeed has seven gables, is still standing, and is now a museum near the waterfront district, a few blocks away from the author’s home.
Only more prevalent that Hawthorne in Salem is witches. The town is not immune to the commercial aspect of its sordid history. There are witch’s shops where everything from broomsticks to spell kits can be found. Real witches like Lori Bruno who will do readings. Add to that candlelit ghost tours and shops that sell anything and everything with a witch’s picture on it.

But there are the real, hurtful aspects of the witch trials that are also in Salem. The Salem Witch Village features wax models, dungeons, and tours of practicing witches who confront the madness and superstitions that took hold of Salem. Be sure to visit the Witch House on Essex Street, the town’s only building with direct ties to the trials as it was the home Jonathan Corwin, one of the judges in the witch trials.

Witchy History

The Witch Dungeon offers a re-enactment of a witch trial based on the original transcripts and offers a tour of a real dungeon. One can also see a performance of “Cry Innocent: The People versus Bridget Bishop,” which re-enacts her trial that took place on June 2, 1692, and her hanging eight days later. The most visited museum is the Salem Witch Museum, which tells a complete story of the hysteria that resulted in 180 men and women being accused of being witches, ending with 19 persons being hung, one crushed to death, and seven dying in prison. The original documents from the trials are housed there as well.
Although there are a number of fine dining establishments, we recommend two: Adriatic Restaurant on Washington Street, which features Turkish and Italian fare with a wood-burning oven, and the Regatta Pub located at the Salem Waterfront Hotel. Obviously seafood dishes are the specialty so try the macaroni and cheese with lobster or the fish and chips.

Salem is the perfect place to get lost in history, but we’re not promising that you’ll find any answers.

Original travel documents
housed here

When Elizabeth Gilbert’s book Eat, Pray, Love, enticed Julia Roberts back on to the big screen, we just had to know all about it.

 

Julia Roberts plays Elizabeth in Eat, Pray, Love

Here the author shares her journey

By Kathryn Knight, 05/09/2010

It wasn't the first time the topic had come up, but now my sister's words hit home in a way they hadn't before. As she cradled her baby, she joked:

"Having a baby is like getting a tattoo - you need to be certain it's what you want before you commit."

It was a flippant comment, but little did she know that it cut to the heart of the turmoil I was going through. I didn't want to face up to it, but I didn't love my husband any more. I didn't want to be married and I didn't want the baby everyone, including him, was expecting me to have.

Looking back, I had no idea then that this moment of despair would be the start of a journey that would change my life - and with it the lives of hundreds of other women who felt as low as I did. All I knew was that I had to escape.

Julia plays Elizabeth in the film

To outsiders, I had a charmed life. At 31, I was married, living in a beautiful house in the New York suburbs and loving my job as a freelance writer. But inside I felt empty and trapped.

When I met my husband in my early 20s and married at 24, I thought he was The One. No one prepared me for the fact he might not be; that, as the years went by, we'd grow apart.

After seven years of marriage, I plucked up the courage to walk away. The divorce was difficult and, by the time the decree absolute came through, I was 34 and struggling to come to terms with the failure of my marriage.

As the months passed, an idea began to form. I'd always wanted to explore Italy, India and Indonesia, and now I had no ties, it was my chance to get my life back.

Using my savings, I started planning my trip. When I set off in the late summer of 2003 I didn't know what to expect, just that I was going to write down all my experiences and find out what I wanted from life.

Elizabeth fell in love with Felipe in Bali

Eat

Arriving in Rome, I only had two plans. To rent an apartment close to the iconic Spanish Steps and enrol in Italian classes. In America I'd lived my life at breakneck speed, juggling work with a frantic social life, never wanting to slow down. I decided to let life run at its own pace.

I knew no one, which I thought would be terrifying, but I soon made lots of vibrant Italian friends who I'd meet for amazing meals in local restaurants where we'd drink limoncello until the small hours. They flirted with me too, especially Giovanni, a 24-year-old brown-eyed Casanova.

But however delicious the thought might be, inviting another man into my bed was not the right way for me to get over my failed marriage.

After Rome, I travelled all over Italy, marvelling at the fact that the woman who always watched what she ate now survived on cheese, pasta, bread and wine.

One night, as I tucked into pizza, I glanced into the mirror and saw a bright-eyed, clear-skinned, healthy face. I'd arrived sad and brittle, but food was healing me. By the time I left Italy I was a stone and a half heavier, but more content.

Spending a lot of time alone made me realise I was the only person responsible for my happiness, or lack of it.

The author healed her mind in India

Pray

When I arrived in India, four months after leaving New York, I was ready for my journey to take a new direction. My body was better, now it was time to heal my mind.

I'd arranged to stay at an ashram (a religious retreat) hidden in the heart of rural India. Each day I'd visit a meditation cave, chanting and trying to clear my mind of worries. It was hard at first, as I would think about what everyone was doing back at home. But slowly, I learned to focus and I soon learned to love the simple way of life at the ashram. I realised there was such a thing as being too in control. I had to stop taking myself so seriously.

As I left India for Bali, I felt full of peace in a way I'd never experienced before.

Love

And enjoyed the culture and food in Italy

Arriving on the Indonesian island, I rented a tiny cottage in the mountains, filling my days with walking, cycling, reading and meditation. With every day, the pain of my divorce eased. Instead of sickening heartbreak and failure, I could understand what had gone wrong. My husband wasn't a bad person, we'd just been wrong for each other. But I'd started to wonder if I'd ever find love again.

Then, a few weeks after I arrived on the island, I met Felipe, a 57-year-old Brazilian musician, at a party. He was also travelling and although my defences were still up, as the weeks went by I allowed myself to open up to him. We took road trips, explored sun-soaked beaches and spent lazy afternoons in each other's arms. Slowly, we fell in love. I didn't worry about the age gap, in fact I found it sexy, and the fact he already had kids from a previous relationship meant that there would never be any pressure on me to start a family. Felipe and I were equals, and by the time I had to return to America in 2004, we'd vowed to make a life together.

I decided to write a book about my journey, Eat, Pray, Love - eat for the food in Italy, pray for India and love for finding Felipe in Bali. I was thrilled and bewildered after it was published in 2006. Then I read in an interview with Julia Roberts that she was giving all her girlfriends the book as a Christmas present.

Suddenly, my life went crazy. What had meant to be a journal, charting my travels, became a bestseller. It felt great, but of course, there were downsides. Although friends and family who I'd mentioned in the book were happy with what I'd written, my ex-husband was angry about how I'd spoken about the breakdown of our marriage. He's moved on, remarried and since had children, but he felt I'd been unfair.

Elizabeth with star of the movie Julia Roberts

I'd moved on too. Felipe and I married in 2007 in a simple ceremony. Today we live in a small town in New Jersey. We don't have kids and I've no regrets.

When I heard Julia Roberts was going to play me in the film version of Eat, Pray, Love I was so happy. I visited the set and was introduced to her. She was really sweet.

In some ways my new life isn't so different from my old one - it's me that's changed. I'm calmer, more centred. I'm much more suited to my second husband, and I am a much better second wife." l Eat, Pray, Love opens in cinemas nationwide on September 24.The Eat, Pray, Love phenomenon

Elizabeth Gilbert's travel journal was published in America in February 2006. After talkshow host Oprah Winfrey dedicated two episodes of her show to Eat, Pray, Love, it quickly became a must-read. Only 30,000 hardback copies were released, but it has now sold more than 7 million copies in over 40 languages. Fans can even recreate Elizabeth's trip for themselves, with tour operators offering packages taking in the three countries she visited.

Beer & betrothing in LAS VEGAS!

At the Little White Wedding Chapel in Las Vegas, couples can get hitched in eight minutes from just $40. Britney Spears and Demi Moore have done it – and so will thousands of Brits this year. We take a peek behind the scenes...

Music courtesy of the King

By Julie Moult in Las Vegas, 04/07/2014

Girl meets boy, girl likes boy, they have a few drinks - and 17 hours later, they're hitched. That's what happened when Nick Bond, 30, wed Alex Gabrielson, 23, in Vegas in April.

Alex and Nick's speedy nuptials made headlines

Their super-speedy nuptials made global headlines, but they're just one of 110,000 couples who tie the knot in the Nevada Desert every year. In Vegas - nicknamed Sin City for its 24-hour bars and casinos - you can be married by Elvis, with Elvis or even astride a Harley. Tacky? Maybe. Good fun? You betcha!

We arrive just before 8am on a Saturday in June, and wait for the infamous Little White Wedding Chapel to open. It's set back from the road - opposite a sign flashing 'NUDE $10 lap dancers' - and surrounded by a white picket fence. Dominating the building is a 15ft replica of a singing Elvis swinging on a pendulum, while inside, there are five separate chapels with six ministers. Elvis impersonators are on tap, along with lamé tuxedos and Hummer limos.

Up to 100 couples can be married at this chapel in any one day. There's no need to pre-book; just pitch up, choose a package from the menu at the door - such as the simple Lover's Package that costs $229 (£153), or one based on the wedding of basketball star Michael Jordan costing $519 (£347) - then get in the queue and wait to say "I do".

No frock? No problem! There's everything from minidresses to size-30 meringues to hire in the wedding shop. No witnesses? You can hire them too. But rest assured, what happens here in Vegas will stay with you for a lifetime.

8AM The infamous Little White Wedding Chapel

8AMThe doors open and we're greeted by the receptionist. Inside the tiny waiting area, it's all quiet until Ave Maria is switched on and the carpet's vacuumed.

8.05AM"Can we get married now?" asks a groom in his early 30s. His bride is also waiting, and they're both dressed casually in jeans and T-shirts. "I've got to be in work in half an hour." Talk about a rush job! But they don't have a $60 (£40) licence from the town hall - the only prerequisite for getting married in Vegas. They're told to come back again tomorrow.

8.15AMNext up is six months pregnant Jennifer Salezar, 25, and her groom Adam Rodrigez, 27, from Chicago, flanked by Adam's brother Albaro and his wife.

8.15AM Jennifer and Adam at their "romantic" Vegas wedding

The guys are wearing T-shirts printed with tuxedos, while Jennifer hides her bump in a $20 (£13) white dress from Target, the American equivalent of Primark. They've paid $170 (£114) for their service, which lasts eight minutes. "We couldn't afford anything more expensive," says Jennifer, an administrator.

The room, decorated with shiny wallpaper, is filled with fake flowers spilling out from two giant golden pillars either side of the gawdy altar. This is the chapel where Britney Spears tied the knot with childhood friend Jason Alexander in 2004. Their nuptials were annulled just two days later.

Jennifer looks set to fare better. "The ceremony was very romantic," she smiles, flashing her gold wedding band.

10.30AM Shannon and Jim say "I do" at the drive-through

10.30AMOutside it's now 35°C as a group pulls in for a drive-through ceremony in the Tunnel of Love. This enables bikers to exchange vows without leaving the saddle, or for couples to tie the knot through the window of their limo. With packages starting at just $40 (£27), it's the cheapest option.

Divorcee Jim Burrows, 50, and his fiancé, legal secretary Shannon Miller, 40, from California, roar up on their Harley-Davidson in jeans and T-shirts. Jim, a builder, said their wedding cost about $300 (£200). "It's better than spending $15,000 (£10,000) and it not working out," he bellows as he kicks up his Harley. We guess he's referring to his previous marriage!

12NOONCharolette Richards, the chapel's owner, arrives. At 74, she's been looking after weddings Vegas-style for 51 years. "I've had brides throw up on me, grooms faint and brides in labour who just managed to say their vows before dashing to hospital to give birth," she says. "One time, when I said: 'Do you take this man?' the bride turned around and said: 'No'. She told everyone the groom and her best friend had been having an affair, threw her flowers at her friend, and stormed out!"

And, of course, there are the times when a bride or groom is jilted. "It does happen," says Charolette, who's married over 800,000 couples. "I had a bride who turned up three times and the groom never came. Another time I was about to marry a couple when I heard a loud smack. The groom had hit the bride. I refused to marry them."

11.30PM Love me tender: Alex and Tara get hitched

They're not the only ones. The chapel won't marry anyone who seems drunk or under the influence of drugs, and gay weddings are not legally recognised in Nevada. (Charolette won't marry you to your dog either, as she was once asked!)

Originally from Minnesota, Charolette found herself in Vegas in 1959 aged 24 with three children, after her husband left her. She discovered the chapel was for sale and raised $50,000 (£33,400) to buy it - and in six months she'd paid off all her debts. "Vegas weddings are popular for many reasons, one being the cost," she says. "Some couples want to marry quietly, and Vegas has a certain appeal: the history, the romance."

As the chapel of choice for many celebrity nuptials, Charolette has come into contact with more than her fair share of stars. "Britney was as sweet as can be," she recalls. "She cried throughout the entire ceremony. I had no idea who Bruce Willis and Demi Moore were until afterwards. And Joan Collins, who married her fourth husband businessman Peter Holm in 1985, gave me a huge hug for keeping it secret."

12.20PM Ashley calls her missing groom

12.20PMA drama is unfolding in the waiting room. Ashley Jacobsen, 25, from Oceanside, California, is waiting anxiously for her groom, Paul Yoder, 23. The couple forgot their paperwork and Paul was sent back to the hotel to find it 20 minutes earlier. Now he's not answering his mobile. Dressed in a traditional white gown, Ashley paces up and down, calling Paul constantly. "He really irritates me," she seethes. The couple have been together for four years and have a seven-month-old son, Damien. "I'm avery forceful person," she says. "I basically told him we we're getting married."

1.00PMJust as it looks like the wedding's off, Paul arrives, an hour late. Ashley sees him and her face relaxes. There's no time for explanations when they come face to face at the altar. Their ceremony - complete with plastic palm trees in the L'amour Chapel - goes without a hitch.

On hand is wedding planner Rose-Ann Henry, 57, who was on duty in August 2008 when Peaches Geldof got married. "She was a little brat," Rose-Ann says. It was Rose-Ann who found the chapel's first Elvis in 1995. "We've had some pretty rotten Elvises over the years," she says. "They can turn into such divas. They should feel lucky to have a job. I mean, they're playing a dead guy."

4.00PM Elvis enters the building with Janet and Amy

4.00PMA large family group arrives. Janet and Kent Wellish, both 49, from Vegas, and Janet's brother Steve Edberg, 45, and his wife Amy, 47, are here to renew their vows in a surprise ceremony organised by Janet and Kent. "It wasn't until we were driving over that we told them what we'd arranged," says Janet. Luckily, last-minute arrivals can take advantage of the chapel's collection of over 300 wedding dresses, as well as make-up artists and hairdressers.

4.30PMIt's 40°C outside, but there's no stopping the crowds of couples as a long queue snakes through reception. Rhonda Bell-Jones, the chapel's organist, gets ready to play for the next wedding. The 86 year old provides musical accompaniment twice a week. "I offer the bride and groom a choice of traditional, gospel, country, classical or showtunes," she says. "Yesterday I had a guy ask for AC/DC. I said: 'Honey, I'm not even allowed to play Metallica.'"

7.00PM Mark and Jessica say their vows

7.00PMAs the sun starts to go down and the neon signs light up the strip joint across the road, another group of bikers arrive outside on Harleys. Julie Boswell, 49, and Larry Wilfret, 51, drove the 1,748 miles from Chicago for a $40 (£27) ceremony. They disappear into the sunset and are quickly followed by Marines Mark Damm, 28, and Jessica Coco, 29. The pair say their vows standing through the sunroof of a white stretch limo. Jessica's outfit consists of a white basque and tight jeans. "One month ago Mark said 'Let's get married,'" reveals Jessica. Mark grins: "I was drunk."

7.00PM Jessica shows off her bridal basque

8.30PMIt's dark and things at the chapel are slowing down. Elvis - real name Paul Casey, 42 - strums his guitar while he waits. "I'm an actor, not an impersonator and there is a difference," he insists.

10.30PMNext to arrive are four women from Texas and their doctor husbands, all slightly worse for wear. They're about to renew their vows alongside Elvis, who launches into Suspicious Minds. It's a strange song choice, but the couples don't seem to notice.

11.30PMThere's another King in the building when Alex Conteh, a 34 year old from Liverpool dressed as Elvis, struts in. He's followed by his wife Tara, 34, AKA Marilyn Monroe, and his cousin Tom Kelly and his wife Louisa, who have come as the Super Mario Brothers. After picking costumes in a fancy-dress store downtown, Alex and Tara decided to renew their vows, three years after their wedding day. As they hold hands and look into each other's eyes, you easily forget the silly costumes. "I love you so much," says Alex. "You are my best friend. Thank you for everything," replies Tara.

11.30PM Tara and Alex travel Vegas style

1.00AMThe seedy side of Vegas lurks outside, as a prostitute walks by in pink thigh-high boots and hot pants.Cockroaches dance on the pavement and the temperature settles above 38°C. Almost 60 couples have been through the doors today to marry or renew their vows. How many of these unions will last is hard to say. But as each couple says "I do", you can't help but be filled with optimism.

2.00AMThe lights are dimmed and the vacuum cleaner comes out. But the giant Elvis continues to swing outside because here, the King never leaves the building.

Celebs who gambled with love in Vegas

Demi Moore and Bruce Willis

After dating for just three months, Demi, then 24, and Bruce, then 32, tied the knot in November 1987. They divorced in 2000 and have three children together.

Britney Spears and Jason Alexander

In January 2004, pop princess Britney and her childhood friend Jason, both 22, married in a 5am ceremony. Wearing jeans and a baseball cap, Spears was walked down the aisle by a hotel porter. Just 55 hours later, the marriage was annulled.

Peaches Geldof and Max Drummey

In August 2008, 19-year-old Peaches wed Max, 25, a musician in the band Chester French. Six months on, they announced their union had ended amicably, with Max later admitting he'd married for publicity. Peaches' parents, Bob Geldof and Paula Yates, also tied the knot in Vegas.

Unlucky in love? Tantrums & tiaras: princesses on the pull!

Unlucky in love? Try being a princess!

Lady GaGa blasts from the stereo as a group of lads kick off their weekend by downing a few pints at the bar of the grotty old man's pub.

Tucked in a corner, Aaliya sips anxiously on her Diet Coke, as a shaven-headed local stalks up to her. "Alright darlin'?" he leers. "I'm a fireman. Fancy sliding down my pole?"

For Aaliya, 35, whose romantic fantasy of British men is a foppish cross between Mr Darcy and Hugh Grant, this introduction to Essex boys is all too much. She runs from the bar and bursts into tears in the middle of the street.

"I thought all British men were perfect gentlemen - the kind who hold doors open and treat women like ladies," she explains.

Clearly, Aaliya has never been to the UK before. To say she's led a sheltered life is an understatement. Back home in Western India, she's known as HRH Princess Aaliya Sultana Babi of Balasinor. And the sort of men she mixes with are a world apart from those propping up the bar in a local boozer.

The princesses in all their regal glory enjoying English life.

She's far more comfortable in the opulent surroundings of her family's palace than deepest, darkest Essex. Privately educated by nuns in the ladylike arts of needlework and music, Aaliya's never even brushed her own hair - she's got a servant to do that, natch.

But there's one thing her money can't buy - love. Dating is unheard of in Aaliya's conservative culture and the only men she meets are through her well-connected parents.

Having failed to find the man of her dreams with their help, she's now travelled to the romantic hot spot of Essex to search for him. Yes, that's Essex.

She's not the only foreign princess keen to find love on UK shores. Two other royals - Princess Xenia Florence Gabriela Sophie Iris of Saxony, who goes by the more manageable Gaby while in Essex, and Princess Sheillah Nvannungi Cindrellah of the Buganda kingdom in Africa - are also trying to find Prince Charming. Their search is the subject of a new BBC3 show, Undercover Princesses.

Living as 'commoners', the trio have dropped their royal titles and share a modest three-bed semi, ironically called Queen's Lodge. Swapping maids for do-it-yourself and high-end fashion for the high street, they're learning to become fully fledged Essex girls for three weeks.

Aaliya gets chatted up.

Gaby, a 23-year-old pretty blonde, is heiress to one of the oldest and most noble royal houses in Germany. But she's worried she'll always be a singleton because she never knows whether men like her for herself, or for her royal status.

Having left behind her flourishing pop career and precious chihuahua, Josephine, at her lavish house in Munich, Gaby is eager to get started on her manhunt.

"I only meet aristocrats at balls," she sighs. "They're so formal and stiff. I've had a couple of boyfriends, but they were jealous of the attention I get from my career as a pop star."

Citing Prince William as "very attractive", Gaby's expectations seem manageable - she's looking for someone funny who'll treat her with respect.

Princess Sheillah Nvannungi Cindrellah has slightly higher standards, however. The long list of things she looks for in a man goes some way to explaining why 31-year-old Cindrellah - as she opts to be known by the bemused people of Essex - is still waiting for her prince.

"He has to be God-fearing, honest, faithful, trustworthy, educated, confident, loving and caring," she states. And her list doesn't end there.

"Above all, he has to be clean. And very, very attractive. That's probably why I'm still single!" she laughs.

The girls make themselves at home in Essex.

A pop star and radio presenter in her own country, Cindrellah, who lives with her parents in a large residential house, is the most famous woman in her kingdom of 5.5 million people and is mobbed by adoring subjects everywhere she goes.

"If I want to go shopping, it takes about three hours," she sighs. "Everyone wants to talk to me. It can make things difficult."

As the royal romantics get to grips with a life without cooks and cleaners, they also ditch their demure designer gear for a full makeover and a night out - Essex style.

Gaby, who usually has a personal shopper and designer, revels in being able to choose her own look.

"When I was 17, all I wanted was to dress a little crazy, like Britney Spears. But because of my position, I couldn't. Now my favourite label is Lipsy - it's cool, just like Britney would wear," she squeals, pulling on a neon-pink minidress.

Cindrellah has no qualms at swapping her conservative clothes for body con, but Aaliya's transformation from princess to party girl is a struggle.

"I never wear anything skimpy," she says, looking in horror at the racks of backless, sideless, thigh-high and see-through garments on offer.

As they hit the town, a gaggle of local girls takes them under their wing and Aaliya's nerves are finally soothed. But as the titled trio start dating, it's not just the cheeky banter in bars that upsets her. Aaliya has to get used to being on her own with a man.

Gaby's more used to dancing at balls than gigs.

"In my culture, men and women are never left alone until they're married," she explains.

Once her worries about the opposite sex are set aside, she finds that men aren't all that scary. In fact, she's disappointed to discover they can be a bit boring. One date ends after she realises they had nothing to talk about except the weather.

"I'm used to being able to converse intelligently about subjects such as art or architecture," Aaliya explains sadly. "I don't like it when they have nothing to say."

And it's not just conversation that proves a sticking point - it's attraction too.

"I was set up on a date by a friend who promised I'd love the guy," says Cindrellah. But her would-be suitor clearly didn't tick even a few of her extensive boxes. "When I saw him, I thought he was old and he wasn't good looking."

It seems it doesn't matter whether you're in line to the throne, meeting men is still a minefield. There's dodgy chat-up lines, disastrous blind dates and, of course, the infamous fireman episode. But no pain, no gain.

And for one princess there is a happy ever after. The other two, meanwhile, may be losers in love, but they all agree that their Essex experience is one they'll never forget.

"I feel like I've got two new sisters now, not just friends," says Gaby, while Aaliya's hoping that one day the three of them will all move to London and live together again.

As for Cindrellah, she's back in Buganda and planning on opening a British-style caff as a reminder of her time in Essex. And with the way to a man's heart supposedly being through his stomach, maybe she'll finally find love.

Laos: nostalgic Mekong River Cruise (15 photo)

On the banks of Champassak, the "Vat Phou" heads south and 4,000 islands

The former "Kingdom of a Million Elephants" is a country with nonchalant charm, living to the rhythm of yesteryear in the meanders of its feeder river. This is the last country in Southeast Asia where one can still taste the flavors of a colonial East disappeared. To discover urgently before the next invasion of mass tourism ...

The former "Kingdom of a Million Elephants" is a country with nonchalant charm, living to the rhythm of yesteryear in the meanders of its feeder river. This is the last country in Southeast Asia where one can still taste the flavors of a colonial East disappeared. To discover urgently before the next invasion of mass tourism ...  

the song of the geckos and the melody of the bullfrogs are unmistakable. Soon dusk will wrap the Mekong. And the night cover the surrounding jungle. River traffic must stop. On "Water Sea" as call Laos, navigation is subtle. Sometimes dangerous. On this royal road which crosses the country nearly 2,000 kilometers must maneuver custody. This nourishing river around which beats the heart of Laos is sure of his eternity and strength.

Able to swallow up everything in its path at the height of the rainy season when it rises 15 meters and floods the banks, it is capricious the coming dry season.

From the rail of the "Vat Phou" our boat hotel while teak, there are at the discretion of the cruise vicious bubbling scattered in its muddy waters. And if the captain chose to cycle through the dense jungle panoramas and voracious around at low speeds, it is primarily for slalom delicately around sandbanks that dot his bed

Here, no sonar or sophisticated card to reveal the pitfalls of the course. It's the old, judgmental and fishermen through information that we progress on the Mekong. Party from the port (Continued on page 116) Craft Champassak, the "Vat Phou" invites daydreaming. In a twelve air-conditioned cabins, one begins to look pass the landscape as Captain Willard in "Apocalypse Now."

Often, poor families send their children to the monastery, giving him a chance to get out© Guillaume Soularue

It was in Vietnam but Laos, the most bombed country in the world during this war has nothing to envy matter dense and mysterious atmosphere. As proof, the Vat Phou, located at the foot of Mount Phou Passak. This temple could have been the hideout where was isolated Colonel Kurtz in his madness. Lost in nature, built between the sixth and the twelfth century, it belongs to a set of pre-Angkorian religious sites covering a wide area straddling Cambodia, Thailand and Laos.

The empire of Chenla, at the origin of the construction, even extended to Burma. Khmer architects have restored many parts. This is why we find the Vat Phou many elements known as Angkor roads paved with stones, decorative lintels and bas-reliefs. The climb to the top is via a steep staircase which discourages some. Wrongly. The view overlooking the jungle behind which stands along the Mekong River is truly breathtaking.

The Mekong River around which beats the heart of Laos, sure of his eternity

Back on the shady promenade deck, rattan chairs would calm the most agitated. Boat staff glide silently and barefoot, like everyone else, on the pearly wooden floor. Interrupting the reverie in which you find yourself forgetting that the day has already eaten half of your time. The "Vat Phou" gently winds its muddy waters, crossing the road sampans, frail craft that elongated tub in our 34-meter traverse destabilizing the seat of the fisherman at the controls. No sin in his eyes but a smile, as it is traditional in Asia.

Inside the cabin of the "Vat Phou" the images of "The Lover" you come back in memory.© Guillaume Soularue

Further down south opens the border of 4,000 islands, known as Si Phan Don, an archipelago that stretches in the middle of the Mekong. It is here that the river sometimes overflows to extend 14 kilometers wide. Navigation practice it in slow motion, and board a boat much lighter than our boat. Hundreds of islands are scattered across the meandering river. This is where the great French dream of a line connecting all the colonial empire broke. On the island of Don Det, one can also see the remains of the only Laos railways, and even the carcass of an old rusty locomotive.

Laos has nothing to envy in Vietnam in terms of the thick and mysterious atmosphere

In this landscape, each island invites docking. And since it had to choose one, it was Don Daeng. Long strips of gray sand spread along its banks. It is here that Antoine de Noailles, great French lawyer, considered it best to work his files. The point of wanting to come back often and decide it was even easier to build an up-to-earth.

In Luang Prabang, the shore is dotted with small restaurants in the open where people come to watch the sun set© Guillaume Soularue

This was the Folie Lodge. A haven of tranquility where Jean d'Ormesson sometimes draw inspiration comes from contemplating the flag of the owner, decorated like a cabinet of curiosities, the vermilion sunset sun.

Hot deal: The Luang Say Luang Prabang

It is not difficult to recognize an exceptional hotel. At the first stroke of course eye. But especially when we realize that we have no desire to leave his room as there is. This is the case of the Luang Say Residence yet located in the middle of Luang Prabang, one of the most beautiful cities in the world! This colonial residence nestled in the heart of the tropical jungle spreads its 24 suites all wood in a refinement that makes one shudder wellness. The luxurious modern comforts remind you that we are in 2016 and not in 1890, but a rare attention to detail surrounds an entire quaint atmosphere. As subtle wooden casing housing the flat screen to melt in this setting from another century. 1860 bar and a cigar lounge where one can easily imagine the weary explorers converse after trips from another era. In the lush garden foliage huge lull the tranquility of the pool complete immerse yourself in a universe, definitely, it is struggling to pull for, anyway, to visit the city. Room from 362 €.  luangsayresidence.com

Do not miss: The Niagara Falls Southeast Asian

Located near the border crossing with Cambodia, in the far south of Laos Khone Pha Pheng are the most impressive waterfalls in the country. A promontory kiosk allows guests to enjoy the view of the 13 kilometers of fast running on just 18 vertical meters, but the wide arms of 300 meters breaks on submerged rocks. Needless to imagine swim without wanting to say goodbye to life. However, some local do not hesitate to brave the fury of the waves. In the morning, fishermen take advantage of the power flow to retrieve the fish have to be carried away by the current into their nets. Using two poles, they direct operations suspended from a bamboo bridge, one wonders at every moment how it does not break.

To discover

Asia, bespoke travel specialist in Asia, Laos offers an off the beaten track along the Mekong, 3 day cruise on the great river on the "Vat Phou". Individual route from Paris to Paris: 10 days-7 nights. 1 night at the Ansara Vientiane, cruising aboard the "Vat Phou" (3 days 2 nights) full board, 1 night in Pakse, 3 nights in Luang Prabang in Luang Say Residence. Price per person in double room from € 3,262. For southern Laos and the region of the 4000 Islands, Asia offers exclusive cruise "Vat Phou" in 3-days 2 nights in Pakse Pakse. River Temple: 3 days-2 nights. Price per person: € 929. Asia.fr

Go

It was voted best long-haul airline in 2016 by Business Traveller. Singapore Airlines flies to Laos (Vientiane and Luang Prabang) three times a week via Singapore SilkAir, a subsidiary. Even eco in A380, comfort is guaranteed, not to mention the refined service aboard the famous "Singapore Girls". In the new Premium Economy class, SIA offers new chair and a spacing of 96.5 centimeters between each row of seats that make travel easy. But if we can, it's business class that we must offer. Singapore Airlines has the most spacious seat beds on the market (86 centimeters wide, it's almost too much!) And offers gourmet dishes signed by 8 international chefs including Georges Blanc, three Michelin stars.